The Way We Wore: A Life in Threads - Robert Elms (Picador)
The "Fever Pitch of urban street fashion" or so it says on the cover of TWWW - A Life In Threads. It may very well become just that or at least it deserves to, according to our Alex Roest.
Robert Elms has had a long career as a writer and broadcaster. His writing career took off at The Face, the influential style bible of the 1980s. He has now written a cracking book that can be considered as yet another effort to write the ultimate one on British street fashion. I for one can't get enough of this stuff and TWWW is most certainly just as good as e.g. "The Look", "The Soul Stylists" or "The Fashion of Football". It's one person's honest, passionate memoir this time however, dealing with the subject.
During the introduction Elms claims to have somehow understood at six years old there was a path or a lineage in smart dressing, watching his brother come home in his first petrol blue bespoke Mod suit. It was as much a family tradition as it was a tradition on a wider scale, going back to the mid-Victorian 'Street Arabs'. Just about every aspect of those street urchins' attire would reappear in one way or another in various 20th century street cults. So the Teddy-Boys weren't the first British youths to overdress and behave tribally after all. It was just another case of Jack-the-lad showing off really. Just like the Casuals would do during the 80s label craze.
The influence of his two older brothers introducing him to the Mod/Skinhead culture triggered a life-long obsession for Elms. The scene where he opens the door as a nine year old to three guys in the dapper, dressed up version of the Skinhead apparel asking for his brother is a definite confirmation of where he will be headed.
The book may not contain any shocking new insights to those in-the-know, there are still some interesting and clever views on how all the various cults are linked. For one thing the connection lies in the fact that some of the same people were involved in Peanut/Smoothie/Soulboy/Punk and finally New Romantic. Those forerunners were extending the fashion to an extent one could say. Committing more than a few style crimes along the way, but that's all part of growing up and barriers needed to be broken down indeed when we're talking the still very narrow-minded 70s. TWWW is also very much a social commentary and full of funny anecdotes adding to the sheer joy of reading it.
The conclusion about how young people are simply no longer interested in the tradition of belonging to a cult I'd agree on. That doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad thing, ever since the Rave thing people have given up on that. I'm sure there are still lots of smart modern dressers, they are just not very likely to align themselves to any single musical style. Which arguably makes the biggest difference compared to the polarized times of the author's youth.
The epilogue in which Elms describes the creation of his latest 'whistle' is exemplary, but I suggest you read this excellent social history for yourselves. Finally the one thing I hated about the book was the lack of pictures. It's about time for someone to compile a photobook of the lost tribes of the 70s!
[Published 28 June 2005]
Other articles on Uppers you might enjoy
The Fashion of Football by Paolo Hewitt, Mark Baxter (Mainstream Publishing)
A must have book for those with a passion for sharp threads, the beautiful game and sweet soul music, according to Alex Roest
Un Mod de Grand Vitesse (or How I was forced into a life of high speed car chases)
Does a Life of crime appeal to you? Then this fashion article is for you...
| Comments: | |
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| bomber | nov 7 2005 7:32PM |
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| Robert Elms love him or hate him. But one thing you can,t deny is he,s got the styles here accurate to a T. Although reading the book reminds me of the many posts I have written on the exact same subjects for the past 4 years on modculture. But without a doubt a masterpiece in British youth style writing. bomber. | |
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| Michael | aug 31 2005 3:18AM |
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| A cracking-good read of a book, but yes, some pictures would have been good. | |
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| Joel | jun 29 2005 8:25AM |
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| Some beautifully crafted scentences in the book......hes a skilled writer. | |
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